Monday, January 6, 2025

The Automat (2021)

 
 
The Automat
directed by Lisa Hurwitz
written by Michael Levine 
2021
 
 
The Automat isn't technically a Mel Brookes movie, but he is director Lisa Hurwitz's first interviewee, and seemingly her directorial mentor. Brookes was clearly invested in the success of the film - he helps connect Hurwitz to her other famous interviewees, and he both wrote and sang some outro music for the end credits. Hurwitz definitely got some pretty famous faces for her documentary debut. In addition to the usual academics and historians, she scored Brookes, Carl Reiner, the CEO of Starbucks, Colin Powell, and Ruth Bader Ginsburg. She also makes really good use of archival footage, especially from golden age Hollywood movies and Looney Tunes that used the restaurant as a set for romance and comedy.
 
Hurwitz uses all this firepower in service of telling the history of one of the most visually iconic restaurants that's ever existed - the Horn & Hardart automat. Famous for its wall of widows, like little PO boxes for your food. Customers could take their tray up to the wall, put in a nickel, open the window, and retrieve a single serving of cafeteria food.
 
Vending machine restaurants were originally developed in Europe, and in the US, mostly only existed in New York City. Its heyday was from about 1900 until mid-century. But because of New York's cultural dominance, the restaurant's many locations in NYC, its striking appearance, and its popularity with writers and other creative types, the automat had an outsized impact on the popular imagination.
 
The interviewees' get nostalgic about the food, the coffee, the decor, (which, unlike most mid-century cafeterias, still looks appealing today!), and especially the benefits of the long hours and low prices. Nearly everyone Hurwitz talked to had a story about a time in their life when they were poor, but at least they could afford the automat, and the chance to sit inside. The place also seems to have had an egalitarian effect on its customers; unlike at restaurants with more personalized service, everyone ate the same food, sat at the same tables, and got treated alike by the automated systems. They found dignity in that.
 
(It's not mentioned in the film, but that's a lot of what I like about the experience of going to Pret a Manger whenever I'm in a city big enough to have one.)
 
Ultimately, the automat was done in by economic changes. Inflation is an obvious culprit - their machines could only accept nickels, making price increases difficult to implement. The rise of McDonald's and other fast food chains offered a form of competition that automats had never really faced before - the same thing, I believe, that happened to Howard Johnson's.
 
And most importantly, I think, middle class and White people became less and less willing to eat at the same restaurants as the poor and Black. We might blame some of that on the worsening conditions of urban poverty, but also perhaps on a hardening of race-based and classist intolerance. And without those customers, the automat could no longer take advantage of the economies of scale that allowed it to function.
 
Hurwitz has assembled a very good documentary about a somewhat niche, but very interesting topic. She's also put the film together in a way that sort of deliberately 'shows the seams,' if you know what I mean. Rather than making a totally polished finished product, she's embedded evidence of the filmmaking process (and Mel Brookes's avuncular mentorship) in the footage the audience gets to see. It's a really enjoyable watch.
 
 
Note: I'm trying something new by starting to include film reviews here. Unlike with books, I'm not reviewing everything I watch, and I'm publishing them on a considerable time delay. For example, I originally watched The Automat in December 2022.

Friday, January 3, 2025

Everything I Watched in 2024

January
Copenhagen Cowboy, season 1
Mononoke
Anastasia (1997)
Only Murders in the Building, season 2
Gimme Shelter
The Boys, season 1
Pokemon Concierge
Cyber City Odeo 808
Star Trek: Strange New Worlds, season 2
Star Wars: Rebels, season 4
Poor Things
Portrait Artist of the Year, series 2 (2014)
 
February
Wonder Egg Priority, season 1
Last and First Men
Star Wars: Ahsoka, season 1
Hazbin Hotel, season 1
Phantom Thread
Elemental
Bungo Stray Dogs, season 3
Portrait Artist of the Year, series 5 (2017)
More than a Married Couple, But Not Lovers, season 1
Casa Susanna
Dune (2021)
  
March
Blue Eye Samurai, season 1
Extraordinary Attorney Woo, season 1
Scavengers Reign
Vesper
Murder at the End of the World
The Puffy Chair
For All Mankind, season 4
X:Men: The Animated Series, season 3 (1994)
The Sandman, season 1
Girls 5 Eva, season 1
The Apothecary Diaries, season 1
Portrait Artist of the Year, series 9 (2019)
Hell's Paradise, season 1
 
April
Amphibia, season 2
Star Wars: Clone Wars (2003)
Polite Society
Phoenix: Eden 17
Raw
Doom Patrol, season 3
Interstellar
The Great Canadian Pottery Throwdown, season 1 (2014)
Made in Abyss, season 1
Monkey Man
Frieren: Beyond Journey's End, season 1
Inception
Landscape Artist of the Year, series 3 (2015)
Submarine (2010) 
 
May
Demon Slayer: Kimetsu no Yaiba, season 3
Girls 5 Eva, season 2
Past Lives
Forbidden Planet
Skip and Loafer, season 1
The Regime
Gunbuster
3 Body Problem, season 1 (2024)
Objectified (2009)
Echo, season 1
Blown Away, season 4 (2024)
The Descent
  
June
Ranking of Kings, season 1
The Princess Diaries
Run Lola Run
Delicious in Dungeon, season 1
What If?, season 2
Heavenly Delusion: Yengoku Daimakyo, season 1
500 Days of Summer
Girls 5 Eva, season 3
Mare of Easttown
Trigun Stampede, season 1
The Boys, season 2
  
July
Das Boot, season 1 (2018)
Uncut Gems
Sailor Moon, season 5 (1996)
Fallout, season 1
Star Wars: The Acolyte, season 1
The Truth vs Alex Jones
16 bit Sensation: Another Layer
We are Lady Parts, season 1
The Pod Generation
 
August
Batman: The Caped Crusader, season 1 (2024)
Poker Face, season 1
The Second Best Hospital in the Galaxy, season 1
Star Trek: Prodigy, season 1
Abigail
Landscape Artist of the Year, series 4 (2016)
Mrs Davis
I Saw the TV Glow
We are Lady Parts, season 2
Drive-Away Dolls
Star Trek: Lower Decks, season 4
 
September
Centaurworld, season 1
The Mummy (1999)
Jujutsu Kaisen 0
Showing Up
Cowboy Bebop (1998)
The Morning Show, season 1 (2019)
The Pretender, season 3
Jujutsu Kaisen, season 2
The Plot Against America
Avatar: The Last Airbender, season 1 (2024)
 
October
Ninja Scroll:The Series (2003)
Meet Me in the Bathroom
Bee and Puppycat
Beeswax (2009)
X-Men: The Animated Series, season 4
Portrait Artist of the Year, series 11 (2020)
Grey Gardens (1975)
Gunbuster 2: Diebuster
Kleo, season 2
The Nightmare Before Christmas
Succession, season 1
 
November
She is Conann
Agatha All Along
Emily the Criminal
Kiki's Delivery Service
Shaun of the Dead
Cowboy Bebop, season 1 (2021)
Star Trek: Prodigy, season 2
The Penguin
Abbott Elementary, season 3
Blue Jean
Hundreds of Beavers
Portrait Artist of the Year, series 12 (2020)
Scott Pilgrim Takes Off
Don't Go Breaking My Heart (2011)
 
December
Bungo Stray Dogs, season 4
X-Men: The Animated Series, season 5
The Pretender, season 4
Portrait Artist of the Year, series 14 (2021)
Hot Fuzz
Dan Da Dan, season 1
Ranma ½, season 1 (2024)
Happiest Season
Batman: The Animated Series, season 1
A Charlie Brown Christmas
Nier: Automata ver 1.1a
Bridget Jones' Diary
Is It Cake? Holiday (2024)
Carry-On

Thursday, January 2, 2025

Everything I Read in 2024

January
Time Salvager by Wesley Chu
Witch Hat Atelier 3 by Kamome Shirahama
Pricing the Priceless Child by Viviana Zelizer
Wonder Woman: Dead Earth by Daniel Warren Johnson
A Field Guide to the North American Family by Garth Risk Hallberg
Star Well by Alexei Panshin
Leina and the Lord of the Toadstools by Myriam Dahman and Nicolas Digard, art by Julia Sarda
  
February
The Dream-Quest of Unknown Kadath by INJ Culbard
The Skull by Jon Klassen
Dark Archives by Megan Rosenbloom
The Best American Comics 2015 edited by Jonathan Lethem
A Memory Called Empire by Arkady Martine
 
March
Witch Hat Atelier 4 by Kamome Shirahama
The Tragedy of Heterosexuality by Jane Ward
The Wolf's Secret by Myriam Dahman and Nicolas Digard, art by Julia Sarda
The Undressed Art by Peter Steinhart
The New Champion of Shazam! by Josie Campbell, art by Doc Shaner
The Carpet Makers by Andreas Eschbach
I Had Trouble in Getting to Solla Sollew by Dr Seuss
One Hundred Aspects of the Moon art by Yoshitoshi, edited by Bas Verberk
Black Sea by Caroline Eden, photos by Ola Smit and Theodore Kaye
 
April
Witch Hat Atelier 5 by Kamome Shirahama
It's Lonely at the Centre of the Earth by Zoe Thorogood
Lent by Jo Walton
Titanium Noir by Nick Harkaway
The Five Lives of Hilma af Klint by Philipp Deines
Sasha Masha by Agnes Borinsky
Mystik U by Alisa Kwitney, art by Mike Norton
The Planet in a Pickle Jar by Martin Stanev
 
 
May
The Seven Deadly Sins of Science Fiction edited by Isaac Asimov, Charles Waugh, and Martin Greenberg
Karmen by Guillem March
Mudlark by Laura Maiklem
How to Make Friends with a Ghost by Rebecca Green
Pollen from a Future Harvest by Derek Kunsken
Superman's Pal Jimmy Olsen: Who Killed Jimmy Olsen? by Matt Fraction, art by Steve Lieber
The Travelling Cat Chronicles by Hiro Arikawa
Beautiful Useful Things by Beth Kephart, art by Melodie Stacey
These Lifeless Things by Premee Mohamed
 
June
Witch Hat Atelier 6 by Kamome Shirahama
Children are Civilians Too by Heinrich Boll
Fables 18: Cubs in Toyland by Bill Willingham, art by Mark Buckingham
In the Country of Last Things by Paul Auster
Goliath by Tom Gauld
Status and Culture by David Marx
The Armored Garden, and Other Stories by David B
A Magical Girl Retires by Park Seolyeon
 
July
The Wonderful Workings of Planet Earth by Rachel Ignotofsky
Fantastic Planet by Stefan Wul
Part of Your World by Stephanie Strohm, art by Kelly Matthews and Nichole Matthew
Bohemians, Flappers, and Swells edited by Graydon Carter
Shuna's Journey by Hayao Miyazaki
 
August
High Times in the Low Parliament by Kelly Robson
The Strange Library by Haruki Murakami, art by Chip Kidd
Crush by Richard Siken
Witch Hat Atelier 7 by Kamome Shirahama
A Case of Conscience by James Blish
Was She Pretty? by Leanne Shapton
On a Sunbeam by Tillie Walden
 
September
Walter Benjamin Stares at the Sea by CD Rose
Aquaman: Andromeda by Ram V, art by Christian Ward
EarthBound by Ken Baumann
Witch Hat Atelier 8 by Kamome Shirahama
City of Folding Faces by Jayinee Basu
Paintings of Japan - Autumn by Angela Pan
Paintings of Japan - Spring by Angela Pan
Raven Girl by Audrey Niffenegger
 
October
Genesis by Jan Sapp
The Best American Comics 2016 edited by Roz Chast
The Butcher of the Forest by Premee Mohamed
Heroes Reborn by Marvel Comics
 
November
A Half-Built Garden by Ruthanna Emrys
Building Stories by Chris Ware
Imelda and the Goblin King by Briony May Smith
Wuhan Diary by Fang Fang
 
December
Glass Town by Isabel Greenberg
The Phantom Scientist by Robin Cousin
The Unaccountability Machine by Dan Davies
The Real Dada Mother Goose by Jon Scieszka, art by Julia Rothman
The One-Bottle Cocktail by Maggie Hoffman, photos by Kelly Puleio
Shady Hollow by Juneau Black
I Saw a Peacock with a Fiery Tail by Ramsingh Urveti
Ringworld by Larry Niven

Monday, December 30, 2024

Ringworld

 
 
Ringworld
by Larry Niven
1970, reprinted 1985
 
 
Ringworld is reasonably famous work of science fiction. It's probably Larry Niven's best-known work. It's the culmination of all the other books and stories in his Known Space setting. Barlowe included one of its aliens in his Guide to Extraterrestrials. It won both the Hugo and Nebula awards, and you can probably find a copy in just about any used bookstore you check. It's long been on my 'probably ought to read this sooner or later' list, and before reading it, I kind of assumed it would eventually get adapted into a prestige miniseries, although now I rather doubt it.
 
The idea of the Ringworld itself is definitely the best-known part of the book, certainly more so than the plot or any of the characters. The Ringworld is an artificial habitat meant to provide almost unlimited living room. It's a circular hoop around it's own star, occupying approximately the entire orbit of Earth. The ring is about a million miles wide, bounded by walls a thousand miles high. For reference, the Earth is about 8000 miles in diameter, so you could stack about 100 Earths from wall to wall. The high walls keep the atmosphere from escaping, giant solar panels in a narrower orbit provide shade to create a day-night cycle, and the whole thing spins very fast to create a centrifugal force approximating Earth gravity. It's a thought experiment, not a thing that could actually exist, and one thing that makes it interesting is that it's very difficult to imagine it without shrinking it to more comprehensible dimensions.
 
The basic plot is that two humans and two aliens go to investigate the Ringworld, they crash land, and then have to use flying motorcycles to try to find help getting their spaceship off the ring. They see the sights, learn more about the history of the place, meet people who can't help them, eventually meet someone who can, and then finally leave. In structure, it's actually quite similar to Jack Vance's Big Planet, Hal Clement's Mission of Gravity, or Jack Chalker's Midnight at the Well of Souls. The success or failure of a plot like that is going to depend on how much you like the characters, and how interesting what they find on the surface is. No matter how cool the big-picture premise is, it can't save poor execution - and notably the big picture here doesn't imply much about the details. The ring could have almost anything on its surface, the same as any alien planet.
 
I'll touch on both of those in a minute, but I first want to note that I found the pacing of the book kind of weird. It's a 300 page book, and we don't arrive at the Ringworld until a hundred pages in, a third of the way through. And we don't meet anyone living on the ring for another 50 pages, at the book's halfway point. Because their flying motorcycles can go at supersonic speeds, the crew of characters we're following travel many times farther than it's possible to travel on Earth, but only interact with a few things, flying over and ignoring the rest. They encounter a village, some dangerous plants, an abandoned city, some dangerous weather, and then an inhabited city where they find help. For all that the ring is huge, Niven doesn't exactly stuff their trip across it with events.
 
I have a fondness for what I call Sapir-Whorf scifi, stories like Samuel Delaney's Babel 17 or China Mieville's Embassytown, that take real properties of language and amplify them until they're basically supernatural. Niven does something like that here (and really, in everything of his I've ever read) with Malthus's ideas about population growth and Darwinian evolution. The pressure created by population growth is more-or-less THE reason why any sentient species does anything. Growth plus evolution means, in Niven's view, that neoliberal economics, selfishness, rational-choice and game-theory decision-making are objectively true, and any attempts at kindness or altruism will give way to necessary cruelty within a few generations. And more generally, cultural change within any sentient species isn't actually driven by culture, but by the success or failure of how they manage their biological evolution. Nivens characters all believe this stuff, and the only times they're ever wrong are when they don't believe it enough.
 
This can potentially make for interesting fiction, although it can also just be offensive and pedantic, and not coincidentally, Niven pairs it with some pretty extreme sexism. What women are 'for' in Ringworld is providing men with children, with pleasure during sex, and otherwise staying out of the way. Both the aliens on the crew come from species where their females are literally non-sentient animals used solely for breeding. The human woman on the expedition is only there because the man likes having sex with her. At one point, to cheer her up when she's sad, he tells her if she weren't there to keep him happy, he'd be forced to rape the aliens. (Yes, this is really something Niven wrote as a reassuring sentiment!) When they later meet the person who can help them, her previous role on her crew was as ship's prostitute, whose job it was to keep the otherwise entirely male crew happy. She uses her sexual skill to try to enslave the main protagonist, something he claims any human woman could do to any man.
 
I sort of presume Niven's eugenic beliefs must've been racist too, although here we see that only by what's excluded. With the exception of the leading man, who is Asian, all the other humans in the book are White, including everyone on the Ringworld. Certainly Niven seems to think that each planet should be a monoculture, and each colony world should remain subservient to the home planet. Even the incomprehensible vastness of the ring seems to home to only one culture with one language, and a consistent way of signaling social class via hairstyle. I'm honestly annoyed that this book gets held up as an exemplar of good scifi!
 
 
Beyond all that, there are two other things you have to contend with. One is just the 1970s-ness of the setting, especially the way Niven chooses to mix humor into his writing. A lot of it just seems silly now. The sole curse word is 'tanj,' an acronym for 'there ain't no justice.' Two human space colonies are called 'We Made It' and 'Mount Lookithat.' Of the two aliens, one looks like a humanoid tiger, and the other, the Puppeteer, looks like a hunched-over person using their arms to make two ostrich-faced hand puppets. The woman on the crew, thanks to the success of human eugenics, is supernaturally lucky, like Domino from the X-Men, and the other three spend an awful lot of time trying to deduce from events just exactly how lucky she must be.
 
The other thing is that this is one of the last of Niven's Known Space works, and it sort of feels like he expects you to've read all the previous ones to fully appreciate it. The tiger-like Kzin have like, a 7 book series detailing their many wars with humanity. The Puppeteers build all the spaceships, and are in a bunch of earlier stories that I've read but mostly forgotten, at least one of which, I assume, explains why the hulls and inner walls of their ships are transparent like glass, which otherwise just seems bizarre. This omission especially surprises me, considering how many words get used telling us how cool the ring is and all the safety features built into the flying motorcycles. Niven does retell several of the earlier plots, which is part of why it takes Ringworld a hundred pages to actually get to the Ringworld, but a lot of ideas are also tossed out like you'll know what they are and why they're significant without him having to describe it. And some things we learn about the history of Known Space are clearly meant to be shocking revelations that recontextualize everything - but you had to believe something different first to fully appreciate that.
 
Anyway, if you can put up with all that, and a plot that's like half introduction, your reward is 150 pages of our heroes figuring out why civilization has collapsed across the Ringworld, and puzzling out how to get their ship off the ring. The collapse was primarily because all electricity, and thus all long-distance travel and communication, relied on a single system that failed and couldn't be fixed. Also no new electricity-generating devices could be built because the builders used atomic transmutation to supply materials, and so there's no metal not already in use on the ring. That all seems egregiously short-sighted on the builders' part, though Niven presents these as totally rational decisions despite their catastrophic (and foreseeable!) consequences. I was even more interested how impoverished Niven's view of nature is. The whole ring is like a giant city park rather than a real ecosystem, because after all, as Niven's characters remind themselves, why would you both including any desert landscape, or bringing along any pests or predatory animals? And at no point is this portrayed as a problem or mistake.
 
This will be my last book of 2024. I need to make sure the next scifi I read is something better than this!

Wednesday, December 25, 2024

I Saw a Peacock with a Fiery Tail

 
 
I Saw a Peacock with a Fiery Tail
art by Ramsingh Urveti
2012
 
 
Ramsingh Urveti only credits himself as the illustrator of I Saw a Peacock with a Fiery Tail, perhaps because the text of the book consists of only the title poem, a folk poem from England in the 1600s, and according to the preface, often included in collections of poetry for children. Urveti's version takes the form of a children's picture book, and the poem is simple enough to be enjoyed by children; but I think adults can enjoy this as well.
 
The poem's first few lines go like this:
"I saw a peacock with a fiery tail
I saw a comet drop down hail
I saw a cloud with ivy circled around..."

 
Read this way, it's a series of strange images. But the poem's 'trick' is that it can be read another way, no longer rhyming, but making perfect sense.
"I saw a peacock
With a fiery tale, I saw a comet
Drop down hail, I saw a cloud..."

 
Urveti's art allows both readings at once. Each two-page has one of his black-and-white ink drawings, and a half-stanza of text. Each also has a hole in the paper that reveals the next half-stanza. So it reads more like this:
"I saw a peacock with a fiery tail
With a fiery tail, I saw a comet
I saw a comet drop down hail
Drop down hail, I saw a cloud
I saw a cloud with ivy circled around..."

 
At the beginning, the cut-outs only show text, but as the book continues, they reveal glimpses of art too, and the cut-outs themselves become an increasingly important part of each new drawing.
 
I don't know why, exactly, but this book feels very appropriate for the Solstice and New Year. Perhaps the images of darkness, of lights in the sky, perhaps the way the dual readings suggest transformation.

Monday, December 23, 2024

Shady Hollow

 
 
Shady Hollow
by Juneau Black
2022 
 
 
Shady Hollow feels both brilliant and inevitable, because what author Juneau Black has done is to take the plot conventions of a classic cozy mystery and place it in the setting of a contemporary cozy video game, like the Animal Crossing series. It makes perfect sense, because both already take place in the same sort of environment - an isolated small town where everyone knows everyone, and where there usually isn't any real hardship or trouble. What separates Shady Hollow from other cozy mysteries is that all the characters are lightly-anthropomorphized animals.
 
I want to note briefly that Juneau Black is the singular pen name of a pair of authors working together, like James SA Corey or Lewis Padgett. This isn't a secret; they explain it in the preface and pose together for the author photo at the back of the book.
 
So, Shady Hollow is a little town tucked away in the northern woods. (I love the double meanings of the word 'shady' here.) The town borders a river, and its chief industry is the wood mill owned the the industrialist von Beaverpelt family. The town has a newspaper, a thriving coffee shop run by a moose (or perhaps a caribou?), a bookshop run by a raven, and a new vegetarian restaurant run by a recently immigrated panda. The police are bears, the usual suspect is a raccoon, the college professor's an owl, and most of the townsfolk seem to be mice, rabbits, etc, wild animals, the kind that usually live in forests. So "A Murder in Richard Scarry's Busytown" remains an available concept to any copyright-courageous writer wanting to turn Black's insight into a subgenre.
 
We start with an introduction to the cast of main characters, written to cast suspicion on absolutely everyone, a map of the town, and then we're off to the races, when the hummingbird gossip columnist spots a dead body floating in the mill pond - the grumpy old toad who lived by the pond and liked to argue with everyone. Aspiring star reporter Vera Vixen picks up the story, determined to both report the news and solve the mystery! She talks to the other townsfolk to try to understand the victim and his relationships. Meanwhile the murderer isn't idle. Someone else is attacked, and then Vera becomes a target herself...
 
The concept of using animal characters gives Black permission to make them all a bit simplified in a way that works well for the story. The dynamic between Vera and her boss, for example, reminds me of Lois Lane and Perry White, or Mary Tyler Moore and Ed Asner. Not flat, but archetypal, iconic. Each character has only a few traits, so you feel like you get to know them quickly, including some of their secrets. This is not a dense or difficult book, it's a page-turner, and at just 200 pages, a quick, enjoyable read.
 
I honestly appreciated that the solution to the mystery was relatively straightforward. There was no locked-room puzzle to untangle, and unlike a couple mystery miniseries I watched recently, no too-clever implausible twist at the end. The answer is grounded in the relationships between the relevant characters that Vera and the audience discover together.
 
Black is also quite careful and playful with language. The townsfolk are 'creatures,' never 'people,' never even 'women' or 'men.' There are 'pawkerchiefs' and folks considering things 'on the one paw,' but never any 'hands' or 'feet.' There are a few little puns and other language jokes, especially in the bookstore, but not so many that they dominate. The snake medical examiner talksss like thisss, but only gets a handful of lines. It's funny without bring overwhelming, a neat balance.
 
As I was reading, I found that the way I imagined the characters shifted between various visual inspirations. At times, I imagined them like the stop-motion puppets from Wes Anderson's Fantastic Mr Fox movie. Other times I pictured them looking like Hannah Barbara cartoons, like Yogi Bear, Huckleberry Hound, and so on. The racoon I kept imagining as the vagabond from the boardgame Root; the sheep I pictured as Lambchop. And once, when the bear police detective picks up an injured Vera to help her to safety and her heart flutters with romantic excitement, I saw them as Little John and Maid Marian from Disney's foxy Robin Hood. It made me wonder how the authors imagined their own characters, and how other readers picture them.
 
Using the same rhyming logic employed here, of combining genres because they share a word in common, it's easy enough to imagine a cozy catastrophe with a cast of talking animals. For all I know, that'll be Juneau Black's next project. But I'm curious if anyone's ever mashed up the cozy mystery and cozy catastrophe, and had an amateur sleuth poking around a murder in the one town that's miraculously unaffected while the rest of the world succumbs to an off-camera apocalypse?

Friday, December 20, 2024

The One-Bottle Cocktail

 
 
The One-Bottle Cocktail
More than 80 Recipes with Fresh Ingredients and a Single Spirit
by Maggie Hoffman
photos by Kelly Puleio
2018
 
 
I got a copy of The One-Bottle Cocktail a few years ago when it first came out. It was getting talked up on NPR and maybe some other news services I was following at the time. And a lot of the drinks in it do sound good, but this is not a book for me. The recipes collected here, most of them anyway, are intended for foodies with well-stocked kitchens. For me, the need to pull a second bottle of liqueur or amaro or bitters out of my cabinet is much less of an obstacle than a recipe that calls for me to prepare my own fresh fruit juice or infuse an unusual vegetable syrup.
 
There's an irony here. In her introduction, author Maggie Hoffman mentions the frustration of finding a cocktail recipe that calls for buying a a bottle of some ingredient that won't have any other uses. But almost all the homemade ingredients in the book are used in only a single recipe, possibly something you wouldn't buy to cook with otherwise. The way Hoffman collected her recipes means that across the book, there are two different simple sugar syrups, and three different concentrations of honey mixed with water. Is that better? It might be a little cheaper, and they'll go bad if you don't use them, instead of hanging out in the back of your cabinet, either to haunt you or to be used again later. Maybe it's a matter of preference.
 
Hoffman found recipes from professional bartenders all over the country, and each recipe credits the original creator and their bar, along with Hoffman's own notes and instructions, and sometimes a photo, either of the preparation or the finished drink. The recipes are organized into sections based on the one bottle they use - vodka, gin, tequila, rum, brandy, and whiskey. At the end of each section is a list of cocktails from the other parts of the book that Hoffman thinks would taste good with that spirit.
 
The recipes vary in complexity, but are mostly on the higher end. There are only a few that only need jam or a single homemade syrup, and maybe lemon or lime juice. Hoffman is very big on the idea of making your own fruit juices by chopping something into cubes, dropping them in the food processor, and first pouring, then pressing the juice through a fine mesh strainer. One recipe notably calls for juicing an entire watermelon this way, something I doubt I have either the stamina or patience for. Other times, she suggests just muddling the fruit before dropping it into the cocktail shaker along with the other ingredients, and double straining during the pour.
 
The size of the recipes also varies, with most making single drinks, a handful making pairs, and a sizable minority making batches of 8 or 12. The punches might be where the idea of this book shines best. They're often for a special occasion, where you don't mind doing a bit more work, and where all the prep can be handled well before everything is combined. The lower alcohol of these recipes is probably also good for most kinds of parties, and by making many drinks at once, you'll use up all the juice or syrup you made, with no leftovers.